Tuesday, November 21, 2017

Recipes of 16th & 17th centuries England by Katherine Pym

 

~*~*~

17th Century Chef


I don’t cook, well maybe sometimes. I like a pristine kitchen and cooking takes away from that. I don’t hunt through recipe books, but I do take naps when cooking shows are on television. I put the sound down low and the chef's droning takes me to slumber-land almost immediately. What I do find interesting are recipes from earlier centuries. This was a time of exploration. Every season, new items were brought back to England. It was an exciting time.

Bear in mind some of the following recipes include very expensive ingredients and most middling families could not afford them.  I found only one reference in the 1660’s of a cook-stove (range), so not sure if there were many in the field. Most families cooked their dinners in the hearth, bent over until their backs were sore.

So, here we go. Maybe, for those who like to cook/bake, you’ll find a lovely holiday recipe to try:

NOTE: the language is as written nearly 400 years ago but you’ll be surprised how easy it is to read. Also, based on some of the ingredients (some of the quantities boggle the mind), it's a wonder many adults survived past middle age. And some did. In my research, I've seen some adults get quite old, ages 70+.

To Stew a Leg of Lamb the best way:
Slice it and lay it in order in your stewing pan, seasoned with salt and nutmeg, adding a pound of butter, and half a pint of claret, with a handful of sliced dates, and the like quantity of currants, and make the sauce with the yolk of two eggs, a quarter of a pint of verjuice1, and two ounces of sugar. Boil them up and put them to the meat, serving all up hot together.

To make collops2 of veal the best way:
Slice your veal fat and lean, beat half a dozen eggs with salt, grate a nutmeg, and stamp or chop a handful of thyme.  Add a pint of stewing oysters, and stew them together with a pound of sweet butter.  Make anchovy sauce, and strew the dish over with capers, and so serve it up.

To Roast a Shoulder of Mutton with Oysters the best way:
Take one not too fat nor too lean, open it in divers places, stuff your oysters in with a little chopped peny-royal3, baste it with butter and claret wine, then serve it up with grated nutmeg, yolks of eggs, ginger, cinnamon, butter and red wine vinegar.

To Stew a Rump of Beef in the best order:
Season it with nutmeg, salt and sugar, lay the bony side downward, slice a dozen shallots, cast in a bunch of rosemary, elder, vinegar and water, of each three pints, suffer it to stew over a gentle fire in a close stew pan two hours, and then with the gravy dish it up with sippits4.

How to Roast a Hare the Best Way:
The hare being flea’d5, lard her with small slips of bacon lard, stick her over with cloves, the ears being stripped and left on, then make a pudding of grated bread, beaten cinnamon, grated nutmeg, currants, cream, sugar and salt.  Make it up with white wine or claret wine, and put it into the belly.  When tying the hare to the spit, roast it by a gentle fire, which done, make sauce of cinnamon, ginger, nutmegs, prunes, grated bread and sugar.  Boil them up to a thickness, and laying the divided pudding on either side of the hare, serve it up with the sauce.

To Roast a fillet of beef
Take a fillet which is the tenderest part of the beef, and lieth in the inner part of the surloyn, cut it as big as you can, broach it, and be careful not to broach it through the best of the meat, roast it leisurely, & baste it with sweet butter, set a dish to save the gravy while it roasts, then prepare sauce for it of good store of parsley, with a few sweet herbs chopp'd smal, the yolks of three or four eggs, sometimes gross pepper minced amongst them with the peel of an orange, and a little onion; boil these together, and put in a little butter, vinegar, gravy, a spoonful of strong broth, and put it to the beef.

To Roast a fillet of beef Otherways.
Sprinkle it with rose-vinegar, claret-wine, elder-vinegar, beaten cloves, nutmeg, pepper, cinamon, ginger, coriander-feed, fennil-seed, and salt; beat these things fine, and season the fillet with it then roast it, and baste it with butter, save the gravy, and blow off the fat, serve it with juyce (juice) of orange or lemon, and a little elder-vinegar.

Or thus (To Roast a fillet of beef).
Powder it one night, then stuff it with parsley, tyme, sweet marjoram, beets, spinage, and winter-savory, all picked and minced small, with the yolks of hard eggs mixt amongst some pepper, stuff it and roast it, save the gravy and stew it with the herbs, gravy, as also a little onion, claret wine, and the juyce (juice) of an orange or two; serve it hot on this sauce, with slices of orange on it, lemons, or barberries.

1.      Acid juice from sour or unripe fruit - the lightly fermented juice of unripe grapes or crab apples (lemon juice works too). 
2.      Slices. 
3.      Mint or basil.
4.      Croutons.
5.      Skinned

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Many thanks to Robert May The Accomplisht Cook (London: 1660) & Wikicommons, Public Domain.




Friday, November 17, 2017

An Acadian Recipe by Diane Scott Lewis


In my novel, On a Stormy Primeval Shore, set in New Brunswick, one of my main characters is an Acadian man, which prompted me to research the history of these people.
Novel blurb:
In 1784, Englishwoman Amelia Latimer sails to the new colony of New Brunswick in faraway Canada. She’s to marry a man chosen by her soldier father. Amelia is repulsed by her betrothed, and refuses to marry him. She is attracted to a handsome Acadian trader, Gilbert, a man beneath her in status. Gilbert must fight the incursion of English Loyalists from the American war to hold onto his land and heritage. Will he and Amelia find peace when events seek to destroy their love and lives.



Available January 2018
Pre-order NOW (link below)
In the 1600's, when France conquered the eastern area of what is now Canada, they called it New France. The settlers were mostly soldiers, farmers and crafts people. They brought their food traditions from rural areas of France, and soon added the foodstuffs, such as corn, moose and black bear, found in this new land.

The staple of the Acadians, as the settlers became known as, was herring, cod, potatoes and pork. Eventually the French recipes disappeared into the local traditions, as purely Acadian. A typical dish is a one pot meal called Fricot, consisting of meat--usually chicken--potatoes, a hearty broth and dumplings (poutines).

For festive occasions, a Pâté à la Râpure or "rappie pie" is still popular in New Brunswick. Grated potatoes are layered with meat or fowl and broth all baked to a golden brown.

Recipe:
1 five pound fowl, chopped
3 medium onions
1 medium carrot
1 celery stalk
2 teaspoon of salt
1/2 pound finely diced salt pork
15 medium potatoes (about 8 pounds)

Combine ingredients, boil until tender, remove fowl's skin and bones, grate potatoes, layer fowl and potatoes and bake at 400 degrees for thirty minutes, then at 350 until crusty brown (two more hours). Of course in the 18th century when my novel takes place, they'd have baked in an iron pot in the fireplace hearth.

For more detailed instructions, click link below for Acadian.org.

Source: Acadian.org

On a Stormy Primeval Shore Pre-order: click HERE

Diane Scott Lewis grew up in California, traveled the word with the navy, edited for magazines and an on-line publisher. She lives in Pennsylvania with her husband.

For more info on my novels, please visit my BWL author page
or my website: Diane Scott Lewis

Monday, November 13, 2017

A Recipe for the Holidays...or Any Time



Papanasi
Of all the dessert recipes I’ve made and consumed over the years, many stand out for their deliciousness and for the many requests over holidays, gatherings, and birthdays. But these days, since a large number of my "boomer" friends and family need to watch what they eat (and not just from plate to fork), I’ve had to find ways to adapt them for a variety of dietary concerns. My father, for instance, was diabetic; my brother-in-law doesn’t eat dairy; another has developed allergies to a gazillion foods; and I have cholesterol issues and need to avoid salt for my blood pressure. While almost anything in moderation can't be too bad, sometimes it’s not possible or even desirable to avoid the urge to splurge.

Take the Romanian delicacy, papanasi (pronounced pop-a-nosh). I tasted it for the first (second and third) time while visiting Romania in 2000. From Bucharest, my friend and I traveled to scenic Transylvania to the mountain resort of Sinaia and to the medieval city of Brasov, where I had the equivalent of gastric euphoria after sampling what my kids (and many others) have come to refer to as Romanian jelly donuts. They used rose petal jam in the restaurant, which was heavenly. My friend and I split a serving, consisting of two of those darlings.

Because they are fried in oil, papanasi is perfect for Hanukkah, along with latkes (yum), and other artery-choking, heart-stopping delights. Papanasi are lighter in texture than donuts and distinctive due to the soft cheese that is an integral ingredient in the dough.

I wish to thank my dear friend (and moose enthusiast), Professor Liliana Popescu, for sending me this recipe back in July 2001, which I have used on more than one occasion for our Festival of Lights celebration feast.

By the way, papanasi, or dumpling, can be prepared and cooked in a number of ways for a number of purposes (think of shrimp a la "Bubba" Buford from “Forest Gump”). The following recipe is as close to the papanasi I remember from my trip. Most of the online recipes nowadays feature an actual donut shape, topped with a munchkin. (The comments in parentheses are mine.)

Papanasi cu branza de vaci

(Fried dumplings with “Cow Cheese”)
makes four large “donuts” or eight small ones

Ingredients:

400 g. soft cheese such as farmer cheese (make sure it’s Breakstone), cottage cheese, ricotta
500 g. flour
250 g. sugar (use your judgement; sugar probably is not necessary)
3 eggs
Zest of one lemon
½ tsp. rum extract

Oil for frying
1 Tbs. confectioners sugar
Jam or preserves
Sour cream or crème fraiche


Directions:

  1. Mix all ingredients (except the oil, jam, powdered sugar) until the batter is the consistency of a sticky dough.
  2. Mould the papanasi into balls (the ones in the Brasov restaurant must have been nearly tennis ball-size)
  3. Fry in hot oil until golden (best done submersed until they rise, or turned frequently).
  4. Dry on paper towels
  5. While still warm use a spoon to pierce the papanisi to create an opening for the jam or preserves
  6. Fill with your choice of jam or preserves
  7. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and top with sour cream or crème fraiche


Enjoy!

 ~*~

Kathy Fischer Brown is a BWL author of historical novels, Winter Fire, "The Serpent’s Tooth" trilogy: Lord Esterleigh’s Daughter, Courting the DevilThe Partisan’s Wife, and The Return of Tachlanad, an epic fantasy adventure for young adult and adult readers. Check out her BWL Author page or visit her website. All of Kathy’s books are available in e-book and in paperback from a host of online and brick and mortar retailers. Look for Where the River Narrows (wriiten with BWL author Ron Crouch), the 12th and final novel in BWL’s Canadian Historical Brides series, coming in July 2018.


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       

Saturday, November 11, 2017

A Recipe for a Holiday Dessert by Joan Donaldson-Yarmey



http://bookswelove.net/authors/donaldson-yarmey-joan/
 
 
The following is a recipe for a dessert that I made for many years for my husband’s birthday and Christmas and when requested for other gatherings. It is simple to make but takes a while because you have to let it cool between layers. It is very rich and each person only needs a small piece.
 
Cherry Delight
Bottom Layer
1 ½ cup graham crumbs
¾ cup brown sugar
½ cup melted butter
Mix these together and pat down into a nine by nine inch pan. Put in refrigerator to harden.
Middle Layer
1 cup whipping cream
1 4oz package softened cream cheese
¾ cup icing sugar.
Whip the cream until almost stiff. Blend in cream cheese and icing sugar and beat until mixed well and stiff. Spread on bottom layer and return to fridge until set.
Top Layer
Open a can of cherry pie filling and spread on top.
 
Enjoy

Tuesday, November 7, 2017

A Holiday Recipe by Anita Davison

The winter holiday season in England begins after Bonfire Night on November 5th when thoughts turn to Christmas food.

A majority of my family don't like Christmas pudding, so I came up with this alternative which has become something of a tradition. It's made by the melting method, thus the mixture is thin and warm when it goes into the tin. If you are not accustomed to this it might seem strange but it works perfectly and shouldn't be baked in too hot an oven to prevent the top going crusty. Soft and moist is the byword for this cake which is almost a pudding.



Sticky Ginger Cake

Ingredients

225g Self Raising Flour
115g Butter
115g Light Muscovado Sugar
115g Black Treacle
115g Golden Syrup
250ml Semi skimmed Milk
1 large egg
25g cornflour
85g stem ginger - chopped
85g fresh ginger - peeled and finely grated
1 rounded teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon baking powder [7g]
18cm diameter deep cake tin with base and sides lined with greaseproof paper -
this prevents not only sticking but keeps a soft surface to the cake.


Method:

1.   Combine flour, cornflour, baking powder, ginger and cinnamon together
2.   Melt butter and brown sugar, syrup, treacle and milk together in a saucepan
      until smooth and warm but not hot.
3.   Slowly stir the dry ingredients into the liquid mix until smooth
4.   Fold in the beaten egg
5.   Pour mixture into cake tin
6.   Bake for 50 min - 1 hour at 160 Deg in a fan oven [170 Deg non-fan]
7.  When cool, decorate by dribbling thin royal icing mixture over the top and sprinkle with chopped
stem ginger.

This cake is great served warm with whipped cream as a dessert, but also superb cold with coffee.
The longer it's kept in an airtight tin, the more moist and sticky it becomes. Not that it's ever lasted more than 48 hours in my family, so I cannot confirm that statement.


Friday, November 3, 2017

Decadent Delights for Any Season by Victoria Chatham



The days when I catered for myself, three children, four boarders and three dogs are long gone but memories of a small, steamy, productive kitchen remain. My kitchen at that time would, if squared up, have been approximately 8 feet by 8 feet in size. In fact, a marketing expert for a kitchen installation business once referred to it as a cubbyhole, not a kitchen.

However, I had the basics: stove, sink, fridge and a twin-tub washing machine that did double duty as my counter space. Meals for 8 people came out of that kitchen every day, with more on Sundays with the addition of family and friends. Everyone, of course, expected pudding after the main meal. 

These traditional English puddings ranged from simple milk puddings like rice and tapioca to fruit pies with custard, the more exotic steamed sponge puddings, especially Spotted Dick, baked egg custard, crème brulee and crème caramel. 

Spotted Dick

In summertime, lighter fare of jellies, fruit fools, trifles, fruit flans, crumbles and torts, lemon meringue pies and Queen of Puddings were included on the menu. Oh yes, and all this was from scratch, nothing came out of a packet.
Queen of Puddings

The tradition of the great English pudding faded as more and more people joined the workforce and would not spend the time on making them. Then there were all the ‘no fat’ or ‘low fat’ food fads which cut out the kind of fats, which science now says we need, so people stopped using butter and shredded suet in these dishes. Cheesecakes were a later addition to the dessert and pudding menu, but the household Christmas favorite, after Christmas pudding with brandy butter or Cornish clotted cream, was Bailey’s Cheesecake.

I believe everyone must be familiar with Bailey’s, that wonderful blend of Irish whiskey and cream. It’s great on its own and can be served in a variety of cocktail mixes, but it also adds a little kick to many recipes. My favorite cheesecakes are always baked cheesecakes and this is my recipe.  

Ingredients:
Bailey's Cheesecake
1 cup of coarse graham cracker crumbs
¼ cup of butter, melted
1 (15 oz) carton of ricotta cheese
1 (8 oz) package of Philadelphia cream cheese
4 eggs, lightly beaten
½ cup of sugar
1/3 cup of Bailey’s Irish Cream Liqueur
1 tsp. good vanilla
¼ tsp. salt

Combine the crumbs and butter, press over the bottom of a 9-inch springform pan. Chill.

Beat together the ricotta and cream cheese until smooth. Add the remaining ingredients, beating until smooth. Pour the mixture over the crumb base. Bake in a pre-heated 325-degree oven for 1 hour and 15 minutes or until firm in the middle. Cool for 20-30 minutes before removing from the pan. Cool completely before serving. Decorate with whipped cream swirls, topped with shaved, dark chocolate and cherries. Serves 8 – maybe.

Why don't you give it a try? I bet it will become one of your favorites, too.